THE BASKETBALL SHOE
November 21, 2024
Converse All Stars, 1923. Photography The Converse Archive
There is no stronger testament to the significance of a clothing item, than a product which remains unchanged after a century of use. One example among many are sneakers that even less dedicated followers of the so-called sneaker culture are familiar with. Both young and old, fans of seemingly disparate genres, and followers of both casual and sophisticated styles adore Converse footwear. The most prominent model of them all being the Converse All Star Chuck Taylor.
In 1908, when Marquis Mills Converse founded the Converse Rubber Company in the small town of Malden, Massachusetts, their story begins. The company originally made rubber utility products, including rubber duck hunting boots, galoshes (rubber overshoes), and even tires. But it didn't take long for the brand to evolve, specializing in the production of footwear, and the first model of sneakers was presented soon thereafter. After several variations, the basketball sneaker was born, created from thick cotton and of course – rubber.
Charles "Chuck" Taylor
Sneakers were introduced in 1917, at the height of the First World War, when the American brand focused entirely on the production of sports equipment. At the same time, basketball, a brand-new sport, was taking over the entire country. Unlike the most popular sports of the time, baseball and American football, which required large outdoor playing fields, basketball could be played in a smaller space. As a result, it became an increasingly popular activity on American college campuses and in urban areas, proving to be crucial to the sneaker's early popularity.
At the time, brands began establishing sports teams to promote themselves, with the team from Converse was known as All Stars. Five years after introducing basketball sneakers, the brand hired Charles Taylor as the coach for its team, but also as a salesman for the company. Not only did Taylor and his players tour basketball courts across the country, Charles also played a large role in educating other coaches, selling Converse All Star shoes while sharing his expertise on team management and talent preparation. Fascinatingly, the experts of the prosperous American company claim that while there is no concrete proof that Taylor played professional sports, he was unquestionably a skilled salesman.
Glen Hawkins and Bill Russell
My mom back in the 1981. Winning on the basketball court
As basketball gained popularity, young players used basketball shoes that Chuck Taylor, as they endearingly called him, had sold them. However, the 1930s saw a sudden decrease in demand. Throughout that period, companies sought strategies to transform and distinguish their products.. In order to capitalise on the trainer-seller's reputation and name recognition, the company added a recognisable patch with a star in the middle, the brand name, and Chuck Taylor's signature to its sneakers in 1934. This feature has endured ever since.
These rebranded sneakers were the most sought-after sports model among Americans; they became the official footwear of the American basketball team in 1936, and kept that status until 1968. In those years, as many as 80 percent of professional and amateur basketball players were wearing Converse All Star Chuck Taylor’s. Over time, only minor design modifications were made, such as smaller holes above the outsoles and alterations to the weight of the rubber and canvas. In order to stop rapid wear, rubber has also been placed at the front of the silhouette. Due to player demand for an older style that permits greater ankle movement, low-top shoes were also introduced in 1957.
These trainers were popular on basketball courts until the mid-1980s, when newer models with more sophisticated technology were released. Basketball training increased in frequency and difficulty as the sport developed. The players' health received greater importance, and strategies to reduce sports injuries were investigated. Many sports brands hired experts to work on the development of new technologies after recognising the potential for profit with the game rising in popularity. Canvas sneakers were replaced with leather high-tops to keep the ankle tight. In short, brands like Nike and Adidas presented improved sneaker variations that took center stage on parquet floors.
Converse old ads
However, things were very different off the pitch. The launch of low-top shoes attracted the non-sporting public who began purchasing them for daily wear. The emergence of these shoes in different colours in the early 1970s further contributed to the appeal of Converse All Star. College teams used it to match their shoes to the colours of their jerseys, and the fans followed them in this choice.
Years later, these shoes allowed young people to express their style more forcefully. For example, at the end of the 1970s, so-called Chuck Taylor’s began to be associated with individualism and subcultures: in the 1970s punks wore them, in the 1980s metal and rockers, and in the 1990s, members of the grunge scene. But these shoes did not stop only at musical genres, they became an indispensable pair in everyone's wardrobe. This relatively inexpensive model stood its ground in the wardrobe as a more casual choice of footwear, and its popularity continues to this day. A testament to their timelessness, many Converse All Stars are worn even decades after purchase.
Ramones
My moms Converse All Star from when she was 16.
They used to be dark blue.
Kurt Cobain
My every day Chucks
All Star sneakers have become cultural icons in a way that the brand never intended, or could have imagined. The American company inaugurated numerous other clothing items and sneakers, but not a single model achieved comparable success; the fact that even after a century of existence the model has remained practically unchanged should not be underestimated. Perhaps their exclusively sporting relevance is now only a historical footnote, but it is unlikely that any today's specialized shoes for basketball (with one notable exception) will experience such a successful transition into the culture of everyday wear.